Saturday, September 29, 2007
Saturday, September 22, 2007
Arriverderci
It's mystifying how our time has past so quickly. I remember first setting out for Rome. The first gelato I ate at Blue Ice. The yells of girls seeing the Mediterranean Sea. Learning how to order pizza by weight, and eating my first piece of pizza bianca make my yearn for the Forno in the Campo dei Fiori. I miss the Smack Family.
I hope everyone had safe travels home.
Ciao Tutti.
I hope everyone had safe travels home.
Ciao Tutti.
Thursday, September 20, 2007
Snapshots
Exercise 23
Tiber Market
August 20, 2007
After dinner, we walk down to the Tiber. Speckles of light line the river. I smell barbeque. I see steak and fries. Is this really Italy? I realize the level of class as I see those gaudy gigantic beer barrels doubling as table tops. You know, plastered with that
Italian brand. I’m happy we ate elsewhere. We walk further until the rows of trinket vendors flank our right side. Do I have that? No. Do I need that? Pause. I don’t think so. My friends flock to a corner stall. They sell those bohemian-esque shoulder bags. The zig-zagged and striped patchwork of color are only enticing enough for me to muster a glance. I find the food much more interesting. A bright stall painted in complementary colors caters to fruit lovers. What is that jagged hunk of pinky red flesh? How clever! They’ve carved the Colosseum out of watermelon, the crowning piece of their fruit stand. Their advertising works. I want to take a spoon and continue carving until the structure slides down ‘brick-by-brick’ into my stomach. We head back the way we came. This time I look at the river instead of the stalls. A putt-putt course of algae floats atop the water. I hope Rome’s fountains aren’t connected to that.
Smells of steak and fries
Riverside vendors delight
Colored orbs of light
Lazio versus Torino
August 25, 2007
I enter the white triangle-topped stadium. Stepping into the seating area, a tapestry of black circles in a sea of bronze comes into view. It focuses into a mass of Italians with their black hair and tanned skin. All these people stand together, shoulder to shoulder. From my seat, I watch an enormous light blue flag flap in the air and warp the wind into an echo of slowly gargled water.
Dots on the grass green field move so quickly. They chase the ball with motivation. I have never been to a professional ‘football’ game before. I do not know all of the rules. The crowd of supporters is what grabs my attention. Every Italian here knows the chants. I wish I knew more Italian. They sing in unison. How do they know when to sing each song? Cult stereotypes fill my mind. My eyes flick up and down with the arms of fans saluting the teams. This heat has the worst timing ever. Beads, no, marble-sized balls of sweat slide along my cheeks. My shirt feels damp. All the people here care about the game. All the people in America care about the food. I’ve only seen one food vendor in the stadium. The customer count was three. By halftime, a smoky haze has formed within the stands. My poor lungs. I hear a familiar chant. I hum the tune with the crowd. Am I becoming Italian? It’s a valiant start.
Sea of sweaty fans
Chant in unison for teams
Sport induces pride
Returning A Gold Top
September 14, 2007
8:47 AM, I arrive too early. Someone has moved the plastic clock diagram in the doorway to read 9:30AM. Forty-four minutes later, I return. The paper white models wear the fabulously ‘in’ styles for the upcoming fall months. I remember the last time. Summer dresses marked with sale tags. Now there are no such displays. Peering along the walls of clothing I fan my fingers through the fabric and slide shirts aside. Nothing I want. Everything here looks like something I could find at Target. I feel the bulge in my purse. It reminds me of my real purpose. Quickly and assertively I make it over to the purchase counter. A wailing baby accompanied by an embarrassed mother step speedily away after her purchase. My turn next. I pull out a crumpled paper bag with their orange logo and hand it to the cashier. Crinkle crinkle. A skeptical gaze into the opening signals my hand as it gropes around for a waxy paper receipt.
Of course she knew I wanted to return it. Why did I buy the thing in the first place? She pulls out the gold sparkly top with frills. I must have been mad. A few clicks of the keyboard and scribbles on the receipt and she hands me the makeshift store-credit card.
I innocently say “I want cash.” Relief fills me. I already saw the selection. I don’t want to buy anything. She points around the store with her hands and mumbles something about “in store.”
My poker face stays blank, this time I voice “I need cash.” She counters with “Come si dice..? come si dice…?” I pretend not to follow. My glazed-over and confused expression holds. Maybe I should play poker for money. I repeat “I need cash” staring her right in the eye.
She lifts her pointer finger in the universal “one moment please” sign and picks up the phone. Seconds later she concedes and opens the money drawer. I don’t think she spoke to anyone on the phone. Blue and red crisp Euro bills make contact with my palm. My grandest victory in Italy thus far.
Enter with purpose,
No translation transaction
I strut home, I win
Tiber Market
August 20, 2007
After dinner, we walk down to the Tiber. Speckles of light line the river. I smell barbeque. I see steak and fries. Is this really Italy? I realize the level of class as I see those gaudy gigantic beer barrels doubling as table tops. You know, plastered with that
Italian brand. I’m happy we ate elsewhere. We walk further until the rows of trinket vendors flank our right side. Do I have that? No. Do I need that? Pause. I don’t think so. My friends flock to a corner stall. They sell those bohemian-esque shoulder bags. The zig-zagged and striped patchwork of color are only enticing enough for me to muster a glance. I find the food much more interesting. A bright stall painted in complementary colors caters to fruit lovers. What is that jagged hunk of pinky red flesh? How clever! They’ve carved the Colosseum out of watermelon, the crowning piece of their fruit stand. Their advertising works. I want to take a spoon and continue carving until the structure slides down ‘brick-by-brick’ into my stomach. We head back the way we came. This time I look at the river instead of the stalls. A putt-putt course of algae floats atop the water. I hope Rome’s fountains aren’t connected to that. Smells of steak and fries
Riverside vendors delight
Colored orbs of light
Lazio versus Torino
August 25, 2007
I enter the white triangle-topped stadium. Stepping into the seating area, a tapestry of black circles in a sea of bronze comes into view. It focuses into a mass of Italians with their black hair and tanned skin. All these people stand together, shoulder to shoulder. From my seat, I watch an enormous light blue flag flap in the air and warp the wind into an echo of slowly gargled water. Dots on the grass green field move so quickly. They chase the ball with motivation. I have never been to a professional ‘football’ game before. I do not know all of the rules. The crowd of supporters is what grabs my attention. Every Italian here knows the chants. I wish I knew more Italian. They sing in unison. How do they know when to sing each song? Cult stereotypes fill my mind. My eyes flick up and down with the arms of fans saluting the teams. This heat has the worst timing ever. Beads, no, marble-sized balls of sweat slide along my cheeks. My shirt feels damp. All the people here care about the game. All the people in America care about the food. I’ve only seen one food vendor in the stadium. The customer count was three. By halftime, a smoky haze has formed within the stands. My poor lungs. I hear a familiar chant. I hum the tune with the crowd. Am I becoming Italian? It’s a valiant start.
Sea of sweaty fans
Chant in unison for teams
Sport induces pride
Returning A Gold Top
September 14, 2007
8:47 AM, I arrive too early. Someone has moved the plastic clock diagram in the doorway to read 9:30AM. Forty-four minutes later, I return. The paper white models wear the fabulously ‘in’ styles for the upcoming fall months. I remember the last time. Summer dresses marked with sale tags. Now there are no such displays. Peering along the walls of clothing I fan my fingers through the fabric and slide shirts aside. Nothing I want. Everything here looks like something I could find at Target. I feel the bulge in my purse. It reminds me of my real purpose. Quickly and assertively I make it over to the purchase counter. A wailing baby accompanied by an embarrassed mother step speedily away after her purchase. My turn next. I pull out a crumpled paper bag with their orange logo and hand it to the cashier. Crinkle crinkle. A skeptical gaze into the opening signals my hand as it gropes around for a waxy paper receipt.
Of course she knew I wanted to return it. Why did I buy the thing in the first place? She pulls out the gold sparkly top with frills. I must have been mad. A few clicks of the keyboard and scribbles on the receipt and she hands me the makeshift store-credit card.
I innocently say “I want cash.” Relief fills me. I already saw the selection. I don’t want to buy anything. She points around the store with her hands and mumbles something about “in store.”
My poker face stays blank, this time I voice “I need cash.” She counters with “Come si dice..? come si dice…?” I pretend not to follow. My glazed-over and confused expression holds. Maybe I should play poker for money. I repeat “I need cash” staring her right in the eye.
She lifts her pointer finger in the universal “one moment please” sign and picks up the phone. Seconds later she concedes and opens the money drawer. I don’t think she spoke to anyone on the phone. Blue and red crisp Euro bills make contact with my palm. My grandest victory in Italy thus far.
Enter with purpose,
No translation transaction
I strut home, I win
Incomplete Italy
Exercise 25
I miss the feeling of my furry dog
lying beside me at night. His push
against my side as I curl and twist
to reposition in a half-conscious slumber,
heating me at the areas he touches.
His barking and midnight song even
linger in my mind. I chase him
through bushes five times his height.
I miss the salty breeze at the beach house,
pelicans that fly against the wind,
crabs bought fresh from the dock, and running at
a flock of oblivious seagulls.
Walking along the shore with waves
erasing my footprints, my eyes focus downwards,
constantly in search for unbroken sand dollars.
Crunch crunch crunch.
The dried crab shells shatter under my shoe.
I imagine watching the sun set along
the coastline semi-hidden by stubborn clouds.
I miss art. Picking up a paintbrush to
show what I see. I spend late nights
speckling my hands with a rainbow of
stray marker marks, whiffs of cedar while
sharpening my pencils, unconsciously
covering myself with eraser dust,
and going cross eyed at three forty-two.
Most of all, I miss my mother.
She cooks Chinese cuisine, including
homemade dumplings. I roll their wrappings
until my front is covered in white powder
handprints. My mouth waters thinking of the
anything-you-can-find-in-the-fridge stir fry,
stuffed spring onion pancakes, red bean pastries,
and of course, rice, fried rice, brown rice, congee,
and rice pudding. I love how we expand
our stomachs after each meal.
I see her level of attentiveness
in her eyes. They glaze over in a fake
let-me-smile-to-please-you manner. Our
crazy mishmash of Mandarin and
English twirls into jibberish sentences.
Our sides split from laughing. Our eyes puff from
crying. In public we use that look, that
says, “I know we’re thinking the same thing.”
When I look at my refection, I see
her eyes and smile masked in my face.
I am going home soon.
I miss the feeling of my furry dog
lying beside me at night. His push
against my side as I curl and twist
to reposition in a half-conscious slumber,
heating me at the areas he touches.
His barking and midnight song even
linger in my mind. I chase him
through bushes five times his height.
I miss the salty breeze at the beach house,
pelicans that fly against the wind,
crabs bought fresh from the dock, and running at
a flock of oblivious seagulls.
Walking along the shore with waves
erasing my footprints, my eyes focus downwards,
constantly in search for unbroken sand dollars.
Crunch crunch crunch.
The dried crab shells shatter under my shoe.
I imagine watching the sun set along
the coastline semi-hidden by stubborn clouds.
I miss art. Picking up a paintbrush to
show what I see. I spend late nights
speckling my hands with a rainbow of
stray marker marks, whiffs of cedar while
sharpening my pencils, unconsciously
covering myself with eraser dust,
and going cross eyed at three forty-two.
Most of all, I miss my mother.
She cooks Chinese cuisine, including
homemade dumplings. I roll their wrappings
until my front is covered in white powder
handprints. My mouth waters thinking of the
anything-you-can-find-in-the-fridge stir fry,
stuffed spring onion pancakes, red bean pastries,
and of course, rice, fried rice, brown rice, congee,
and rice pudding. I love how we expand
our stomachs after each meal.
I see her level of attentiveness
in her eyes. They glaze over in a fake
let-me-smile-to-please-you manner. Our
crazy mishmash of Mandarin and
English twirls into jibberish sentences.
Our sides split from laughing. Our eyes puff from
crying. In public we use that look, that
says, “I know we’re thinking the same thing.”
When I look at my refection, I see
her eyes and smile masked in my face.
I am going home soon.
Tuesday, September 18, 2007
The Villa Farnesina
Introduction
Walking along the Via della Lungara passers by may catch a glimpse of a large seemingly rectangular structure known as the Villa Farnesina. The lower walls patched with hues of organey-browns and tan-pinks, surround clean cut rows of windows along the upper and lower floor. A bold cornice outlines the roof and marks a dark angular line into the Roman sky. The villa sits happily, within sight of the Tiber River. Its central location in Trastevere, places the villa at the heart of Rome. A wealthy Sienese banker, Agostino Chigi, commissioned the structure in the early 1500s originally naming it Villa Chigi. Today it is known as the Villa Farnesina due to a purchase made in 1581 by the Farnese family who later renamed it. The building, designed by Baldassarre Peruzzi, began construction in 1506 and finished in 1511. Villas have played a large role in Italian society and the Italian Renaissance. The interesting placement of this countryside villa in urban Rome amplifies its purpose as a place of entertainment and fun. This paper will describe the physical attributes of the villa, its function, and the goals of the patron.
Physical Description
Chigi commissioned a fellow Sienese architect and painter, Baldassarre Peruzzi, to build his villa. Peruzzi also knew extensive astrology and studied under Bramante and Raphael. The villa was built between 1506 and 1511 but continued to have the interior decorated until about 1519, and some parts still remained unfinished at that time.
Exterior
The Villa Farnesina radiates harmony in its clean architecture. A well achieved balance between symmetry and elegance coats the simple proportions. The cross section of the building is a square and the main section, excluding the wings, combines two squares. The two-square proportion repeatedly occurs in the dimensions of doors and windows throughout the villa except in the attic and the mezzanine. Floor plans reveal a typical U-shaped blueprint. That characteristic coupled with the garden setting, open loggias, and painted decoration strongly categorize this building as a villa.
Monochrome frescos originally covered the exterior of the building. Rather accurate speculations hypothesize the outdoor frescos continued nature themes along the exterior thus enhancing the overall theme and purpose of the building. The painting style imitated Roman marble reliefs and gave the building the feel of an ancient monument. The décor along the top has pairs of cherubs holding up festoons of flowers and fruit. These combined properties added more interaction with the impressive gardens, hazed the difference between outside and inside and created a ‘vision of earthy paradise.’
Interior
Chigi’s reputation as a patron of the arts, his connections with artist and his large sums of money resulted in an unforgettable cast of painters to work on the interior of the villa. The extensive crew included the architect Baldassarre Peruzzi, Sebastiano del Piobo, Giovanni da Udine, Giulio Romano, Il Sodoma and Raphael. The interior truly screams with pagan images, an abrupt change compared to most pieces of the time. Four main rooms show the beauty and grandeur of the villa. Each has a different character and ambiance reflective of the main artists. Discussion will follow the order of commission (and the order when visiting the villa), the Sala di Galatea, the Loggia di Psyche, the Sala delle Prospettive and the Sala di Sodoma.
Sala di Galatea
Walking into this room presents the viewer with an intricately decorated space full of character. Gold and blue hit one’s eyes to grab attention and to show wealth. Blues in the ceiling’s sky present the most striking color of all. Painted and designed by Peruzzi in 1511, the style appears somewhat two-dimensional and resembles the transition from Medieval to Renaissance art. One must remember the central archway on the garden side held the original entrance to the previously open loggia. As a result, upon entering the ceiling panels would be facing the ‘right’ direction.
Most sections of the ceiling are covered by a figure in human form that represents a celestial sign. It contains ten spandrels, fourteen severies and two central panels. Peruzzi chose to fill the spandrels with zodiacal signs. The numerical limitation forces him to pair four of them Aries with Taurus and Libra with Scorpio. Seven planets are carefully placed within these spandrels. The severies contain other constellations. Starting with Altar in the panel directly opposite the viewer, from the original entrance, to the left we find the Lyre, the Arrow, the Dolphin, the Bird or Swan, Pegasus, the Triangle, and the River Eridanus. To the right of Altar we have the Northern Crown, the Crater, the Hydra, the Dog, the Ship and the Charioteer. The two main ceiling panels feature, on the left, Perseus about to decapitate Medusa, with Fame, or possibly Virgo, flying to the right of them, and on the right, a representation of the constellation Wain driven by Cyunosura or Helice.
Many scholars have questioned and analyzed the significance of the ceiling. Most believe the placement of the figures allude to the birth date of Agostino Chigi. Planets follow a very precise pattern. Thus the specific placement of the seven planets in the spandrels marks the date of either November 29 or 30 in the year 1466. The main contributors to the dating are Moon’s movement behind Virgo depicted by Virgo and Luna sharing a spandrel.
Scholars have also question the reasoning behind the figures in the severies. One theory uses the writings of Aratus’s Phaenomena and Manilus’s Astonimica. These texts were available to Peruzzi at the time. They indicate which celestial signs rose and set during the ascension of each zodiacal sign. We find all eleven of the stated associated signs in the fourteen severies along with two other stars, Pegasus and Eridanus. These two were placed in the positions according to their relationship with other stars in the real sky. The final severy contains Altar. It touches Chigi’s sun sign of Sagittarius. With the added information in the severies, the time of his birth is cut down to a 24-hour span from noon 29 November to noon the next day. The final piece of information comes from the two panels. If a North South line is drawn by placing the Chariot/Bear in the north part of the ceiling and Perseus in the south, the time that the stars of the constellations in the panels line up are from 9:20 to 11:00 pm. Meshing all the components together, the ceiling in its entirety represents a one and a half hour window on the night of November 29 in 1466. Not only was Baldassarre Peruzzi a talented artist and architect, he also proved to be an exceptional astrologer. Support for this theory also comes from Baptistry archives in Siena of the birth of Mariano Chigi’s son at 21 ½ hours on 29 November 1466. Although the intricacies of this ceiling are quite exquisite, Peruzzi’s genius often gets overshadowed by the more realistic, detailed, humanized paintings of Raphael. One wall fresco shows Raphael’s contribution to this room.
The wall frescos as a whole feel disconnected, because the series of paintings planned for the walls were never completed. The Triumph of Galatea painted by Raphael in 1512, shows one of the few secular paintings during his career. Set in the ocean with a blue cloud-spotted sky, the main figure in the painting is Galatea known as “she who is milk-white”. She twists her torso to the right as a red cover billows in the wind following the flow of her hair. Three cherubs fly above with their bows strung with arrows. A fourth cherub sits behind a cloud and observes with a mischievous expression. Below, Tritons blow horns and one in the foreground grabs at a sea nymph. In the mythological story, the Nereid Galatea falls in love with a peasant farmer Acis. The Cyclops Polyphemus also falls in love with Galatea and kills Acis with a boulder out of jealousy. Galatea then turned his blood into the river Acis. The painting depicts when Galatea reaches a state of godliness or, apotheosis. The bright colors, decorations and form, seem inspired by Michelangelo. Polyphemus, painted by Sebastino del Piombo sits gazing in the panel to the left of Raphael’s fresco. These two paintings side by side show the two differing schools of art. The rest of the paintings on the walls are landscapes added in the 17th century.
The story of Galatea plays off love and desire, a theme repeated throughout the villa. Some scholars suggest it represents Agostino’s love life, when chasing a woman he could not have. This room impressively ties the heavens, earth and sea through the astrological ceiling, the open loggia, and the tale of Galatea.
Loggia di Psyche
This magnificent loggia, designed by Raphael and mostly painted by his crew of helpers in 1518, shows a spectacular amount of skill. Originally the main villa entrance presided here and the room was an open loggia. The walls imitate realistic architectural form using light and shadow to trick viewers with illusion. Nature plays an important role through the abundance of vegetation in the festoons outlining the ceiling and its partitions, and the illusion of sky along the top and semi-circle lunettes. The fruit and vegetables have an enormous amount of detail, many of which were modeled after the variety of exotic and well maintained plants in the glorious gardens. The color scheme in this room feels very cool. The pinkish shades of skin tone pop out from the ceiling and the interplay between the characters shows a mastery of space and expression.
The ceiling depicts of story of Amour and Psyche as narrated in Apuleius’s Golden Ass. Legend has it, Psyche was the most beautiful child of King Anatolia. Jealous of her, Venus (Aphrodite) asks her son Cupid (Eros) to pierce Psyche with a golden arrow so she would fall in love with the ugliest man on earth. He agrees but falls in love with her instead. The two marry, but Psyche upsets Cupid. Advised by the gods, Psyche sets out to regain Cupid’s love through service. She eventually asks Venus for aid. Venus orders Psyche to perform a series of near impossible tasks. With the aid of others she completes enough for Cupid to forgive her. He flies to Mount Olympus and asks Jove to help save Psyche from the last task. Jove does and during a formal council declares his approval of the marriage between Cupid and Psyche. Later, Cupid fetches Psyche and she drinks immortalizing Ambrosia. The two have a child named Volupta (Bliss or Delight) and Venus and Psyche reconcile.
The entire ceiling focuses around the dramatic love story full of courtship, danger, jealously and pleasure. The two main panels show the Council of the Gods and the Marriage of Cupid and Psyche. Along the sides of the ceiling, Raphael depicts other portions of the story. The beginning panel shows Venus pointing downwards while discussing her plan with Cupid. This room clearly carries the themes of nature and love in a very pagan manner. Raphael successfully intertwines the characters and the style of painting while following more realistic and 3-dimensional Renaissance art.
Sala delle Prospettive
The name of this room works perfectly. The side frescoes, designed and painted by Baldassare Peruzzi, depict columns going into the distance. Agostino commissioned him in 1519. When standing in the center of the room, the columns follow perfect perspective. Painted with detail, they imitate dark veined marble. They present an architectural foreground to the countryside background that builds on the illusion of nature within the villa. These views conveniently tie in the traditional villa scene because villas were usually built in the suburbs. The continuation of the floor into the fresco emphasizes the illusion and carries the viewer out. Divinities reside above the doors and windows and a frieze of mythological scenes line the ceiling. The forge of Vulcan has a fitting placement on the northern side, above the fireplace. Deeply coffered squares tile the ceiling and give the room a sense of depth. This room clearly plays on illusions of space and successfully engages the viewer to peer out and interact with nature.
Sala di Sodoma
This room is also known as the Agostino’s bedroom and was commissioned in 1519. Walking in, the walls are completely frescoed. The coffered ceiling depicts scenes from mythology, again showing more pagan references. The most eye-catching aspect of the room is Sodoma’s Marriage of Alexander and Roxanne. Roxanne twists her body as she gazes to the outstretched hand of Alexander. Cherubs occupy a large portion of room along the top of the fresco and within. A few even tug at Roxanne’s limbs. The paintings on the side show people in battle and heading towards the marriage. Stairs leading into the fresco draws in and interacts with the viewer. The reoccurring theme of love and drama clearly presides in this room. Many believe the marriage scene reflects Agostino’s third marriage to Francesca Andreazza. His martial ceremony, performed by Leo X, actually took place in the Villa Chigi. Thus, the frescoed theme of marriage and love properly define the private bedroom as a place of their union.
Function
The Villa Farnesina truly embodied its purpose of entertainment. Agostino Chigi used this building for parties, formal dinners, his wedding, theatrical performances and more. The amount of money and time put into the villa shows how ostentatious Chigi felt about showing his fortune. Agostino Chigi would serve dinner guests on lavish plates of silver. To demonstrate his abundance of money to his company, he would order his servants to toss the silverware out of the windows and into the Tiber after their meals. Secretly nets in the water caught the pieces of eatery and eventually made their way back to the villa.
Architectural choices by Peruzzi emphasize the theatrical purpose of the building. Peruzzi alludes to the function by using Vitruvian authority. Vitruvius explains the design of Roman theatre through arithmetic ratios. Lower stories should have pedestals and an entablature respectively one third and one fifth the height of its columns while upper storey pedestals have half the height and columns have three fourths the height of their lower level counterparts. Peruzzi followed the advice with exactness.
In the early 1500s, theatrical events adapted to their environment not the other way around. The u-shape, and open Loggia di Psyche creates an ideal enclosure for performances. At the time, a raised stage flanked the two wings to line the loggia. Actors entered from the room’s openings. Thoughtfully, the frescoes in the Loggia di Psyche just cover the ceiling while the paintings on the walls restrict themselves to architectural and patterned designs. This made setting changes and backdrops easier to create and adapt to during performances. Illusionary perspective and Muses carrying tragic and comic masks along the walls continue the theatrical implications upstairs in the Sala delle Prospettive.
Goals of the Patron
The goal of creating a building to function as a location for entertainment, partying and showing the wealth of the Chigi family definitely succeeded. In addition, bringing nature into the building presents another major goal when building a villa. At first glance the exterior is lined with an abundant amount of windows, allowing natural light in and connecting the rooms to nature as much as possible. Furthermore, the two loggias were originally open. Not only would that add more light, but sweet smells from the garden and even insects and animals had access to the rooms.
The Loggia di Psyche served as the original entrance into the villa. Observing the ceiling, one can see the impact of nature on the fresco. A thick festoon of leaves and a variety of fruit follow the architectural space along the spandrels and ceiling panels. This matches the frieze on the exterior. The earthly colors and background of blue sky incorporate the outside in. Even the semi-circle lunettes above the walls have painted windows with a fictitious outdoor view. The large vertical panels of windows facing the garden flood the room with daylight. Upstairs, the Sala delle Prospettive creates an illusion of countryside views as one gazes at the frescoes and past the columns. The distant horizon generates a feeling of space and infinity. In Sala di Sodoma, Alexander and Roxanne’s courtship is in a covered area, but effort was made to continue the story outdoors on the side frescoes, and in the background of the main fresco. Nature clearly impacted the villa as a major theme throughout the entire building.
Conclusion
The Villa Farnesina houses art from some of the most prominent figures of its time. Each room tells a different story as one can only imagine the splendor and extravagance Agostino Chigi must have experienced when entertaining guests in his new villa.
After the Chigi sold the building to the Farnese family, the Farnese made plans to connect it by bridge with the Palazzo Farnese. Building began but never completed. In later centuries the Bourbon of Naples owned it, and the Spanish Ambassador in Rome. Today the Italian state has used it for the Accademia dei Lincei and the Gabinetto dei Disegnie dell Stampe. The harmonious architecture, meaningful proportions, innovative and eye-catching frescoes swimming in pagan themes of nature and love will attract passers by and art fanatics for many years to come.
Bibliography
D’Ancona, Paolo. The Farnesina Frescoes at Rome. Italy: Edizioni Del Milione, 1956.
Janick, Jules and Paris, Harry. “The Cucurbit Images (1515-1518) of the Villa Farnesina, Rome.” Annals of Botany 97 (2006): 165-176.
Jones, Mark. “Palazzo Massimo and Baldassare Peruzzi's Approach to Architectural Design.”
Architectural History Vol. 31 (1988): 59-106.
Markschies, Alexander. Icons of Renaissance Architecture. New York: Prestel, 2003.
Quinlan-McGrath, Mary. “The Astrological Vault of the Villa Farnesina Agostino Chigi’s Rising Sign.” Journal of the Warburg and Courtauld Institutes Vol. 47 (1984): 91-105.
Quinlan-McGrath, Mary. “The Villa Farnesina, Time-Telling Conventions and Renaissance Astrological Practice.” Journal of the Warburg and Courtauld Institutes Vol. 58 (1995): 53-71.
Walking along the Via della Lungara passers by may catch a glimpse of a large seemingly rectangular structure known as the Villa Farnesina. The lower walls patched with hues of organey-browns and tan-pinks, surround clean cut rows of windows along the upper and lower floor. A bold cornice outlines the roof and marks a dark angular line into the Roman sky. The villa sits happily, within sight of the Tiber River. Its central location in Trastevere, places the villa at the heart of Rome. A wealthy Sienese banker, Agostino Chigi, commissioned the structure in the early 1500s originally naming it Villa Chigi. Today it is known as the Villa Farnesina due to a purchase made in 1581 by the Farnese family who later renamed it. The building, designed by Baldassarre Peruzzi, began construction in 1506 and finished in 1511. Villas have played a large role in Italian society and the Italian Renaissance. The interesting placement of this countryside villa in urban Rome amplifies its purpose as a place of entertainment and fun. This paper will describe the physical attributes of the villa, its function, and the goals of the patron.
Physical Description
Chigi commissioned a fellow Sienese architect and painter, Baldassarre Peruzzi, to build his villa. Peruzzi also knew extensive astrology and studied under Bramante and Raphael. The villa was built between 1506 and 1511 but continued to have the interior decorated until about 1519, and some parts still remained unfinished at that time.
Exterior
The Villa Farnesina radiates harmony in its clean architecture. A well achieved balance between symmetry and elegance coats the simple proportions. The cross section of the building is a square and the main section, excluding the wings, combines two squares. The two-square proportion repeatedly occurs in the dimensions of doors and windows throughout the villa except in the attic and the mezzanine. Floor plans reveal a typical U-shaped blueprint. That characteristic coupled with the garden setting, open loggias, and painted decoration strongly categorize this building as a villa.
Monochrome frescos originally covered the exterior of the building. Rather accurate speculations hypothesize the outdoor frescos continued nature themes along the exterior thus enhancing the overall theme and purpose of the building. The painting style imitated Roman marble reliefs and gave the building the feel of an ancient monument. The décor along the top has pairs of cherubs holding up festoons of flowers and fruit. These combined properties added more interaction with the impressive gardens, hazed the difference between outside and inside and created a ‘vision of earthy paradise.’
Interior
Chigi’s reputation as a patron of the arts, his connections with artist and his large sums of money resulted in an unforgettable cast of painters to work on the interior of the villa. The extensive crew included the architect Baldassarre Peruzzi, Sebastiano del Piobo, Giovanni da Udine, Giulio Romano, Il Sodoma and Raphael. The interior truly screams with pagan images, an abrupt change compared to most pieces of the time. Four main rooms show the beauty and grandeur of the villa. Each has a different character and ambiance reflective of the main artists. Discussion will follow the order of commission (and the order when visiting the villa), the Sala di Galatea, the Loggia di Psyche, the Sala delle Prospettive and the Sala di Sodoma.
Sala di Galatea
Walking into this room presents the viewer with an intricately decorated space full of character. Gold and blue hit one’s eyes to grab attention and to show wealth. Blues in the ceiling’s sky present the most striking color of all. Painted and designed by Peruzzi in 1511, the style appears somewhat two-dimensional and resembles the transition from Medieval to Renaissance art. One must remember the central archway on the garden side held the original entrance to the previously open loggia. As a result, upon entering the ceiling panels would be facing the ‘right’ direction.
Most sections of the ceiling are covered by a figure in human form that represents a celestial sign. It contains ten spandrels, fourteen severies and two central panels. Peruzzi chose to fill the spandrels with zodiacal signs. The numerical limitation forces him to pair four of them Aries with Taurus and Libra with Scorpio. Seven planets are carefully placed within these spandrels. The severies contain other constellations. Starting with Altar in the panel directly opposite the viewer, from the original entrance, to the left we find the Lyre, the Arrow, the Dolphin, the Bird or Swan, Pegasus, the Triangle, and the River Eridanus. To the right of Altar we have the Northern Crown, the Crater, the Hydra, the Dog, the Ship and the Charioteer. The two main ceiling panels feature, on the left, Perseus about to decapitate Medusa, with Fame, or possibly Virgo, flying to the right of them, and on the right, a representation of the constellation Wain driven by Cyunosura or Helice.
Many scholars have questioned and analyzed the significance of the ceiling. Most believe the placement of the figures allude to the birth date of Agostino Chigi. Planets follow a very precise pattern. Thus the specific placement of the seven planets in the spandrels marks the date of either November 29 or 30 in the year 1466. The main contributors to the dating are Moon’s movement behind Virgo depicted by Virgo and Luna sharing a spandrel.
Scholars have also question the reasoning behind the figures in the severies. One theory uses the writings of Aratus’s Phaenomena and Manilus’s Astonimica. These texts were available to Peruzzi at the time. They indicate which celestial signs rose and set during the ascension of each zodiacal sign. We find all eleven of the stated associated signs in the fourteen severies along with two other stars, Pegasus and Eridanus. These two were placed in the positions according to their relationship with other stars in the real sky. The final severy contains Altar. It touches Chigi’s sun sign of Sagittarius. With the added information in the severies, the time of his birth is cut down to a 24-hour span from noon 29 November to noon the next day. The final piece of information comes from the two panels. If a North South line is drawn by placing the Chariot/Bear in the north part of the ceiling and Perseus in the south, the time that the stars of the constellations in the panels line up are from 9:20 to 11:00 pm. Meshing all the components together, the ceiling in its entirety represents a one and a half hour window on the night of November 29 in 1466. Not only was Baldassarre Peruzzi a talented artist and architect, he also proved to be an exceptional astrologer. Support for this theory also comes from Baptistry archives in Siena of the birth of Mariano Chigi’s son at 21 ½ hours on 29 November 1466. Although the intricacies of this ceiling are quite exquisite, Peruzzi’s genius often gets overshadowed by the more realistic, detailed, humanized paintings of Raphael. One wall fresco shows Raphael’s contribution to this room.
The wall frescos as a whole feel disconnected, because the series of paintings planned for the walls were never completed. The Triumph of Galatea painted by Raphael in 1512, shows one of the few secular paintings during his career. Set in the ocean with a blue cloud-spotted sky, the main figure in the painting is Galatea known as “she who is milk-white”. She twists her torso to the right as a red cover billows in the wind following the flow of her hair. Three cherubs fly above with their bows strung with arrows. A fourth cherub sits behind a cloud and observes with a mischievous expression. Below, Tritons blow horns and one in the foreground grabs at a sea nymph. In the mythological story, the Nereid Galatea falls in love with a peasant farmer Acis. The Cyclops Polyphemus also falls in love with Galatea and kills Acis with a boulder out of jealousy. Galatea then turned his blood into the river Acis. The painting depicts when Galatea reaches a state of godliness or, apotheosis. The bright colors, decorations and form, seem inspired by Michelangelo. Polyphemus, painted by Sebastino del Piombo sits gazing in the panel to the left of Raphael’s fresco. These two paintings side by side show the two differing schools of art. The rest of the paintings on the walls are landscapes added in the 17th century.
The story of Galatea plays off love and desire, a theme repeated throughout the villa. Some scholars suggest it represents Agostino’s love life, when chasing a woman he could not have. This room impressively ties the heavens, earth and sea through the astrological ceiling, the open loggia, and the tale of Galatea.
Loggia di Psyche
This magnificent loggia, designed by Raphael and mostly painted by his crew of helpers in 1518, shows a spectacular amount of skill. Originally the main villa entrance presided here and the room was an open loggia. The walls imitate realistic architectural form using light and shadow to trick viewers with illusion. Nature plays an important role through the abundance of vegetation in the festoons outlining the ceiling and its partitions, and the illusion of sky along the top and semi-circle lunettes. The fruit and vegetables have an enormous amount of detail, many of which were modeled after the variety of exotic and well maintained plants in the glorious gardens. The color scheme in this room feels very cool. The pinkish shades of skin tone pop out from the ceiling and the interplay between the characters shows a mastery of space and expression.
The ceiling depicts of story of Amour and Psyche as narrated in Apuleius’s Golden Ass. Legend has it, Psyche was the most beautiful child of King Anatolia. Jealous of her, Venus (Aphrodite) asks her son Cupid (Eros) to pierce Psyche with a golden arrow so she would fall in love with the ugliest man on earth. He agrees but falls in love with her instead. The two marry, but Psyche upsets Cupid. Advised by the gods, Psyche sets out to regain Cupid’s love through service. She eventually asks Venus for aid. Venus orders Psyche to perform a series of near impossible tasks. With the aid of others she completes enough for Cupid to forgive her. He flies to Mount Olympus and asks Jove to help save Psyche from the last task. Jove does and during a formal council declares his approval of the marriage between Cupid and Psyche. Later, Cupid fetches Psyche and she drinks immortalizing Ambrosia. The two have a child named Volupta (Bliss or Delight) and Venus and Psyche reconcile.
The entire ceiling focuses around the dramatic love story full of courtship, danger, jealously and pleasure. The two main panels show the Council of the Gods and the Marriage of Cupid and Psyche. Along the sides of the ceiling, Raphael depicts other portions of the story. The beginning panel shows Venus pointing downwards while discussing her plan with Cupid. This room clearly carries the themes of nature and love in a very pagan manner. Raphael successfully intertwines the characters and the style of painting while following more realistic and 3-dimensional Renaissance art.
Sala delle Prospettive
The name of this room works perfectly. The side frescoes, designed and painted by Baldassare Peruzzi, depict columns going into the distance. Agostino commissioned him in 1519. When standing in the center of the room, the columns follow perfect perspective. Painted with detail, they imitate dark veined marble. They present an architectural foreground to the countryside background that builds on the illusion of nature within the villa. These views conveniently tie in the traditional villa scene because villas were usually built in the suburbs. The continuation of the floor into the fresco emphasizes the illusion and carries the viewer out. Divinities reside above the doors and windows and a frieze of mythological scenes line the ceiling. The forge of Vulcan has a fitting placement on the northern side, above the fireplace. Deeply coffered squares tile the ceiling and give the room a sense of depth. This room clearly plays on illusions of space and successfully engages the viewer to peer out and interact with nature.
Sala di Sodoma
This room is also known as the Agostino’s bedroom and was commissioned in 1519. Walking in, the walls are completely frescoed. The coffered ceiling depicts scenes from mythology, again showing more pagan references. The most eye-catching aspect of the room is Sodoma’s Marriage of Alexander and Roxanne. Roxanne twists her body as she gazes to the outstretched hand of Alexander. Cherubs occupy a large portion of room along the top of the fresco and within. A few even tug at Roxanne’s limbs. The paintings on the side show people in battle and heading towards the marriage. Stairs leading into the fresco draws in and interacts with the viewer. The reoccurring theme of love and drama clearly presides in this room. Many believe the marriage scene reflects Agostino’s third marriage to Francesca Andreazza. His martial ceremony, performed by Leo X, actually took place in the Villa Chigi. Thus, the frescoed theme of marriage and love properly define the private bedroom as a place of their union.
Function
The Villa Farnesina truly embodied its purpose of entertainment. Agostino Chigi used this building for parties, formal dinners, his wedding, theatrical performances and more. The amount of money and time put into the villa shows how ostentatious Chigi felt about showing his fortune. Agostino Chigi would serve dinner guests on lavish plates of silver. To demonstrate his abundance of money to his company, he would order his servants to toss the silverware out of the windows and into the Tiber after their meals. Secretly nets in the water caught the pieces of eatery and eventually made their way back to the villa.
Architectural choices by Peruzzi emphasize the theatrical purpose of the building. Peruzzi alludes to the function by using Vitruvian authority. Vitruvius explains the design of Roman theatre through arithmetic ratios. Lower stories should have pedestals and an entablature respectively one third and one fifth the height of its columns while upper storey pedestals have half the height and columns have three fourths the height of their lower level counterparts. Peruzzi followed the advice with exactness.
In the early 1500s, theatrical events adapted to their environment not the other way around. The u-shape, and open Loggia di Psyche creates an ideal enclosure for performances. At the time, a raised stage flanked the two wings to line the loggia. Actors entered from the room’s openings. Thoughtfully, the frescoes in the Loggia di Psyche just cover the ceiling while the paintings on the walls restrict themselves to architectural and patterned designs. This made setting changes and backdrops easier to create and adapt to during performances. Illusionary perspective and Muses carrying tragic and comic masks along the walls continue the theatrical implications upstairs in the Sala delle Prospettive.
Goals of the Patron
The goal of creating a building to function as a location for entertainment, partying and showing the wealth of the Chigi family definitely succeeded. In addition, bringing nature into the building presents another major goal when building a villa. At first glance the exterior is lined with an abundant amount of windows, allowing natural light in and connecting the rooms to nature as much as possible. Furthermore, the two loggias were originally open. Not only would that add more light, but sweet smells from the garden and even insects and animals had access to the rooms.
The Loggia di Psyche served as the original entrance into the villa. Observing the ceiling, one can see the impact of nature on the fresco. A thick festoon of leaves and a variety of fruit follow the architectural space along the spandrels and ceiling panels. This matches the frieze on the exterior. The earthly colors and background of blue sky incorporate the outside in. Even the semi-circle lunettes above the walls have painted windows with a fictitious outdoor view. The large vertical panels of windows facing the garden flood the room with daylight. Upstairs, the Sala delle Prospettive creates an illusion of countryside views as one gazes at the frescoes and past the columns. The distant horizon generates a feeling of space and infinity. In Sala di Sodoma, Alexander and Roxanne’s courtship is in a covered area, but effort was made to continue the story outdoors on the side frescoes, and in the background of the main fresco. Nature clearly impacted the villa as a major theme throughout the entire building.
Conclusion
The Villa Farnesina houses art from some of the most prominent figures of its time. Each room tells a different story as one can only imagine the splendor and extravagance Agostino Chigi must have experienced when entertaining guests in his new villa.
After the Chigi sold the building to the Farnese family, the Farnese made plans to connect it by bridge with the Palazzo Farnese. Building began but never completed. In later centuries the Bourbon of Naples owned it, and the Spanish Ambassador in Rome. Today the Italian state has used it for the Accademia dei Lincei and the Gabinetto dei Disegnie dell Stampe. The harmonious architecture, meaningful proportions, innovative and eye-catching frescoes swimming in pagan themes of nature and love will attract passers by and art fanatics for many years to come.
Bibliography
D’Ancona, Paolo. The Farnesina Frescoes at Rome. Italy: Edizioni Del Milione, 1956.
Janick, Jules and Paris, Harry. “The Cucurbit Images (1515-1518) of the Villa Farnesina, Rome.” Annals of Botany 97 (2006): 165-176.
Jones, Mark. “Palazzo Massimo and Baldassare Peruzzi's Approach to Architectural Design.”
Architectural History Vol. 31 (1988): 59-106.
Markschies, Alexander. Icons of Renaissance Architecture. New York: Prestel, 2003.
Quinlan-McGrath, Mary. “The Astrological Vault of the Villa Farnesina Agostino Chigi’s Rising Sign.” Journal of the Warburg and Courtauld Institutes Vol. 47 (1984): 91-105.
Quinlan-McGrath, Mary. “The Villa Farnesina, Time-Telling Conventions and Renaissance Astrological Practice.” Journal of the Warburg and Courtauld Institutes Vol. 58 (1995): 53-71.
Saturday, September 15, 2007
Cloister Contrast
Exercise 16
We enter the cloister of Santi Quattro Coronati. I lounge in a rectangular garden centered by a fountain. This morning is really cold and windy. Luckily I find a spot to bask under the sun in. It warms me up but blinds me at the same time. Most of the class sits in shadows so. As I gaze around, I have a lot of difficulties seeing them and I wonder if they are looking back at me. Everyone puts effort into being as quiet as possible. People start to get up and move around. This adds to the noise because of the crunch of rocks beneath their feet. My heart quickens momentarily as an abrupt bell rings the nun to open the door. I’m now sitting in the shady side of the garden. It is noticeably cooler, but I can see much more. The fountain has two lion faces per side on the panel and their chins are being tickled by the reflected water below.
I love the numerous columns and arches. The architecture is simple but bold and leaves distinct shadows for the photographer inside me, to admire. The loudest sound I can hear is a single trickling coming from four spouts. I have trouble hearing four different streams of water; the most I can discern is two. As I walk by the fountain each flow of water hits the placid pool below and creates a dozen bubbles. The strangest thing catches my attention. The bubbles look cubic not spherical. I inch nearer to see them close-up. After a few seconds, I realize the reflection of the building looks like a rectangular block which made those bubbles look straight-edged as well.
As I enter Santa Maria della Pace, my first impression is the level of noise in this cloister. I hear murmuring echoing into the space from all sides. The sound of a synthetic out-of-date cell phone momentarily overrides the whispering. I glance around at the white columns and down at the cobblestone floor. It is black with four white lines converging to the center to make a large X. I look for somewhere to sit. I suppose the ground padded by Mark’s Italiadea book, will have to do. Hopefully my white skirt makes it through the experience. As I bend down to take a seat, a whiff of putrid sewer-stink enters my nose. There isn’t much to see or put in the small space. I wait a while, hoping for the quiet serene silence to come. It never does.
The atmospheres of these two cloisters have extreme differences. Santi Quattro Coronati uses the senses to impart the sacredness of their space and the peace associated with the church. The silence enhanced hearing. The sight of attractive architecture, a fountain, and well-maintained plants and paths pleased the eyes. And, fresh air from the open space let my nose inhale freely. On the other hand, the cloister at Santa Maria della Pace left me unsatisfied and annoyed. Hearing the sounds of others distracted me. The plain architecture with no central feature left my eyes bored with the space. And, smelling the sewage from nearby grates wrinkled my nose. I prefer the cloister of Santi Quattro Coronati much more. I feel empowered because the cloister alludes to a sanctuary. Contrastingly, Santa Maria della Pace’s cloister seemed like a muted down street. The magic of Santi Quattro Coronati lingers in my memory as a haven for the silent and a place I will revisit.
We enter the cloister of Santi Quattro Coronati. I lounge in a rectangular garden centered by a fountain. This morning is really cold and windy. Luckily I find a spot to bask under the sun in. It warms me up but blinds me at the same time. Most of the class sits in shadows so. As I gaze around, I have a lot of difficulties seeing them and I wonder if they are looking back at me. Everyone puts effort into being as quiet as possible. People start to get up and move around. This adds to the noise because of the crunch of rocks beneath their feet. My heart quickens momentarily as an abrupt bell rings the nun to open the door. I’m now sitting in the shady side of the garden. It is noticeably cooler, but I can see much more. The fountain has two lion faces per side on the panel and their chins are being tickled by the reflected water below.
I love the numerous columns and arches. The architecture is simple but bold and leaves distinct shadows for the photographer inside me, to admire. The loudest sound I can hear is a single trickling coming from four spouts. I have trouble hearing four different streams of water; the most I can discern is two. As I walk by the fountain each flow of water hits the placid pool below and creates a dozen bubbles. The strangest thing catches my attention. The bubbles look cubic not spherical. I inch nearer to see them close-up. After a few seconds, I realize the reflection of the building looks like a rectangular block which made those bubbles look straight-edged as well.
As I enter Santa Maria della Pace, my first impression is the level of noise in this cloister. I hear murmuring echoing into the space from all sides. The sound of a synthetic out-of-date cell phone momentarily overrides the whispering. I glance around at the white columns and down at the cobblestone floor. It is black with four white lines converging to the center to make a large X. I look for somewhere to sit. I suppose the ground padded by Mark’s Italiadea book, will have to do. Hopefully my white skirt makes it through the experience. As I bend down to take a seat, a whiff of putrid sewer-stink enters my nose. There isn’t much to see or put in the small space. I wait a while, hoping for the quiet serene silence to come. It never does.
The atmospheres of these two cloisters have extreme differences. Santi Quattro Coronati uses the senses to impart the sacredness of their space and the peace associated with the church. The silence enhanced hearing. The sight of attractive architecture, a fountain, and well-maintained plants and paths pleased the eyes. And, fresh air from the open space let my nose inhale freely. On the other hand, the cloister at Santa Maria della Pace left me unsatisfied and annoyed. Hearing the sounds of others distracted me. The plain architecture with no central feature left my eyes bored with the space. And, smelling the sewage from nearby grates wrinkled my nose. I prefer the cloister of Santi Quattro Coronati much more. I feel empowered because the cloister alludes to a sanctuary. Contrastingly, Santa Maria della Pace’s cloister seemed like a muted down street. The magic of Santi Quattro Coronati lingers in my memory as a haven for the silent and a place I will revisit.
Friday, September 14, 2007
Testaccio Taste
Exercise 13
A rusty blue tin roof caught my attention as I revisited the Testaccio market. A pile of shoes on shoeboxes appears into view. I do not remember this from our first visit. As I stand in the first intersection of paths, I notice the artificial and natural lights blend under the covered area. The space, especially the asphalt floor, reminds
me of a musty parking garage. There is no uniformity in the stands that teeter along the sides of the market and divide the area within. I expected the market to just sell food, but a tapestry of colorfully-patched fabric morphs into rows of shoes, bags and clothes as I focus in. It immediately disproves my original thoughts. I make a left. The first food stand I see pops out like a neon sign in Amish county at night. It’s called Fromaggiano. The cluttered stand glows a fake pink, with an ambiance of tungsten. I can barely see the cheese and meats while my eyes try to process an inundation of red and yellow signs. They label the types of cheeses and their price per kilo. I spot the ‘big cheese,’ actually the stack of big cheese wheels arranged like a child’s building block tower. Sadly, I don’t have the courage or the proper refrigeration to buy anything in the moment. As I continue down the path, I stop to look at crates of fruits and vegetables. I love the colors, and especially the cheap prices! If I owned a stand like this, I would arrange my produce by color. That would be the best rainbow ever. I step to the side and notice the figs here are only 3,00€ compared to the 6,00€ in the Campo. I grab a three green ones and a purple one. The total comes to 21 centesimi; I get away with paying 20.
Slowly I meander my way to the other end of the market where a pungent waft of fish alerts me of the produce before I even see the stands themselves. It reminds me of Pike Place market and my lack of seafood in the last few weeks. Continuing on, I find myself in front of the only Forno-esque stand I’ve seen so far, right in the center of the market. I must try their olive focaccia. I’m quite sure it’s larger than my face. The light bread fills my stomach as I nibble and search for the exit. My yearning for a true Italian market and my stomach, have both been fully satisfied.
On the way home, I mentally compare the Campo market to this one. The atmosphere here feels dirtier, raw but more intimate. In Testaccio I hear so much more Italian and feel like this is the true local market. In contrast, the Campo usually fills up with tourists and I pick up pieces of English quite often. The prices here vary much less and seem more reasonable. All in all, the market in Testaccio truly embodies the everyday Italian market, while the Campo adds a level of presentation and theatrics to its picturesque under-the-sun feel. For me, the Campo meets my everyday market needs, but if I ever find myself in Trastevere, I would gladly extend my walk over to Testaccio for its intimate Italian appeal.
A rusty blue tin roof caught my attention as I revisited the Testaccio market. A pile of shoes on shoeboxes appears into view. I do not remember this from our first visit. As I stand in the first intersection of paths, I notice the artificial and natural lights blend under the covered area. The space, especially the asphalt floor, reminds
me of a musty parking garage. There is no uniformity in the stands that teeter along the sides of the market and divide the area within. I expected the market to just sell food, but a tapestry of colorfully-patched fabric morphs into rows of shoes, bags and clothes as I focus in. It immediately disproves my original thoughts. I make a left. The first food stand I see pops out like a neon sign in Amish county at night. It’s called Fromaggiano. The cluttered stand glows a fake pink, with an ambiance of tungsten. I can barely see the cheese and meats while my eyes try to process an inundation of red and yellow signs. They label the types of cheeses and their price per kilo. I spot the ‘big cheese,’ actually the stack of big cheese wheels arranged like a child’s building block tower. Sadly, I don’t have the courage or the proper refrigeration to buy anything in the moment. As I continue down the path, I stop to look at crates of fruits and vegetables. I love the colors, and especially the cheap prices! If I owned a stand like this, I would arrange my produce by color. That would be the best rainbow ever. I step to the side and notice the figs here are only 3,00€ compared to the 6,00€ in the Campo. I grab a three green ones and a purple one. The total comes to 21 centesimi; I get away with paying 20. Slowly I meander my way to the other end of the market where a pungent waft of fish alerts me of the produce before I even see the stands themselves. It reminds me of Pike Place market and my lack of seafood in the last few weeks. Continuing on, I find myself in front of the only Forno-esque stand I’ve seen so far, right in the center of the market. I must try their olive focaccia. I’m quite sure it’s larger than my face. The light bread fills my stomach as I nibble and search for the exit. My yearning for a true Italian market and my stomach, have both been fully satisfied.
On the way home, I mentally compare the Campo market to this one. The atmosphere here feels dirtier, raw but more intimate. In Testaccio I hear so much more Italian and feel like this is the true local market. In contrast, the Campo usually fills up with tourists and I pick up pieces of English quite often. The prices here vary much less and seem more reasonable. All in all, the market in Testaccio truly embodies the everyday Italian market, while the Campo adds a level of presentation and theatrics to its picturesque under-the-sun feel. For me, the Campo meets my everyday market needs, but if I ever find myself in Trastevere, I would gladly extend my walk over to Testaccio for its intimate Italian appeal.
Thursday, September 13, 2007
Market Matters
Exercise 9
My first day out in the market; I search in vain for an apple. I’m so thrilled I go to the first stand I see and choose the densest, freshest apple I can get my hands on. In actually does the fruit even matter? I mean I’ve eating an uncountable number of apples in my life. Truthfully I want to use the fruit as a prop in my theatrics to fit in. As I finish paying the 30 centesimi, I almost skip over to the water fountain. Washing my apple under the constant stream of liquid and then walking away as it crunches beneath my teeth, makes me feel the most Italian I have ever felt in my life. I even pause to take a gander at the other vendors as I walk to the opposite end of the campo. My moment of truth: a woman steps in my way, and I confidently say “Scusa”. She scoots sideways without giving me a second glance and responds with the traditional “Prego.” I consciously mark it as my informal induction to Rome.
I made a vendor gasp. Note to self, never try to use a five Euro bill in the market when just buying one tomato.
Yesterday I ate some fresh figs on a pie. I’ve never seen those Granny-Smith-apple-green figs before, nor had I ever eaten figs fresh. Today I went in search of figs in the market. My choices were green, purple and Indian. I decided to stick with the green. At a stand near the side of the Campo, the vendor shoved a clear plastic bag out and I grab it with some hesitation. He knew I was eyeing the figs. My uneasiness must have shone through my facial expression because he quickly grabbed the bag back. All I could muster was a weak “tre” as I held up three fingers while I pointed at the fruit with the other hand. He weighed it out and charged me 50 centesimi. Before our transaction completed, he slipped another fig into my bag with a wink of an eye.
I bought a peach today. The woman who sold it to me, had wiry hair, and an old wrinkly face. It reminded me of a partially dehydrated Shar Pei, you know, those dogs whose eyes hide under the folds of their face. Well she greeted me with a sweetly drawn out “Buonjourno” and a crinkle-your-eye smile. How could I say no. Of course I had to by the peach. Good thing peaches are in season.
This morning I entered the Campo and smelled some stinky fish. Another booth has been added in the corner. As I gaze around, I notice many more vendors jigsawed into the previously free spaces before we left for Firenze. This must be the market’s full potential. Time to explore. I return successfully with a paper bag of tomatoes.
My internal alarm clock woke me up at 7:13AM. I would normally go back to sleep, but
I haven’t perused the market for the past few days and I miss the morning booths of food. Automatically I change into street-appropriate clothing and march out, ready to buy. To my astonishment, they were still setting up. I was too early for the market. This has never happened before. I felt like the poor person who goes out Sunday morning for the opening of their favorite store, but gets denied by the harsh “fall-back” daylight savings. Except I came to realize, this happens six days of the week in the Campo, I’ve just never experienced it before.
My first day out in the market; I search in vain for an apple. I’m so thrilled I go to the first stand I see and choose the densest, freshest apple I can get my hands on. In actually does the fruit even matter? I mean I’ve eating an uncountable number of apples in my life. Truthfully I want to use the fruit as a prop in my theatrics to fit in. As I finish paying the 30 centesimi, I almost skip over to the water fountain. Washing my apple under the constant stream of liquid and then walking away as it crunches beneath my teeth, makes me feel the most Italian I have ever felt in my life. I even pause to take a gander at the other vendors as I walk to the opposite end of the campo. My moment of truth: a woman steps in my way, and I confidently say “Scusa”. She scoots sideways without giving me a second glance and responds with the traditional “Prego.” I consciously mark it as my informal induction to Rome.
I made a vendor gasp. Note to self, never try to use a five Euro bill in the market when just buying one tomato.
Yesterday I ate some fresh figs on a pie. I’ve never seen those Granny-Smith-apple-green figs before, nor had I ever eaten figs fresh. Today I went in search of figs in the market. My choices were green, purple and Indian. I decided to stick with the green. At a stand near the side of the Campo, the vendor shoved a clear plastic bag out and I grab it with some hesitation. He knew I was eyeing the figs. My uneasiness must have shone through my facial expression because he quickly grabbed the bag back. All I could muster was a weak “tre” as I held up three fingers while I pointed at the fruit with the other hand. He weighed it out and charged me 50 centesimi. Before our transaction completed, he slipped another fig into my bag with a wink of an eye.
I bought a peach today. The woman who sold it to me, had wiry hair, and an old wrinkly face. It reminded me of a partially dehydrated Shar Pei, you know, those dogs whose eyes hide under the folds of their face. Well she greeted me with a sweetly drawn out “Buonjourno” and a crinkle-your-eye smile. How could I say no. Of course I had to by the peach. Good thing peaches are in season.
This morning I entered the Campo and smelled some stinky fish. Another booth has been added in the corner. As I gaze around, I notice many more vendors jigsawed into the previously free spaces before we left for Firenze. This must be the market’s full potential. Time to explore. I return successfully with a paper bag of tomatoes.
My internal alarm clock woke me up at 7:13AM. I would normally go back to sleep, but
I haven’t perused the market for the past few days and I miss the morning booths of food. Automatically I change into street-appropriate clothing and march out, ready to buy. To my astonishment, they were still setting up. I was too early for the market. This has never happened before. I felt like the poor person who goes out Sunday morning for the opening of their favorite store, but gets denied by the harsh “fall-back” daylight savings. Except I came to realize, this happens six days of the week in the Campo, I’ve just never experienced it before.
Tourist Info
Exercise 19
Species: Shan Lu a.k.a. “Susie”
Overview:
This rare species of Susie descends from Chinese ancestry as part of the Lu Family. She generally displays a calm demeanor and enjoys social interaction. During most times of the year Susie can be found in the Pacific Northwest. Currently she continues schooling at the University of Washington but who knows where her spontaneous decisions will lead her in life. Art provides her with endless hours of amusement. Susie enjoys drawing, painting and taking photos. Please allow time for visual creativity to release itself.
Social Behavior:
Those displaying a similar sense of humor occupy her with hours of entertainment. She enjoys the company of interesting individuals that do not have a negative personality and can carry on engaging conversation. If permitted she will talk for long periods of time, ask follow up questions and tell jokes that she realizes aren’t funny halfway through.
WARNING: Lack of control over bursts of laughter, hasn’t quite mastered talking in a low voice, may induce awkward silences (accidentally of course). Be careful with her feelings; she is quite gullible and has been known to take comments literally.
Habitat:
Raised in an environment with few housemates, she sometimes feels claustrophobic and cornered into social situations. Please allow solitary time if needed, or asked for. One of her defining abilities is the use of flexibility to curl up in almost all sitting devices and fall asleep within eight and a half minutes. This trait controls crankiness during traveling. During ‘work mode’ her materials tend to slowly ebb outwards and eventually conquer more area than expected. Please note: lack of sleep may induce unresponsiveness, uncontrolled periods of laughter, and possible moodiness.
Feeding:
Susie is a habitual snacker and has plenty of experience with rummaging in pantries. Nearby food WILL disappear within her jaws never to be seen again. This omnivore is not picky about food. She loves fresh fruit and vegetables. Although she does not obsess about meat, she does savor the occasional steak, chicken breast etc. Her favorite protein provider is seafood. Most types of fish and shellfish indulge her appetite. Her snack of choice is popcorn and she appreciates the occasional handful of trail mix. She enjoys almost all cuisines but her favorite is Chinese food, especially dumplings and noodles.
WARNING: Avoid feeding her blue cheese, Ethiopian bread, and most meats that still look like the animal in question.
Thank you for visiting Susie, we hope you enjoyed the exhibit.
Species: Shan Lu a.k.a. “Susie”
Overview:
This rare species of Susie descends from Chinese ancestry as part of the Lu Family. She generally displays a calm demeanor and enjoys social interaction. During most times of the year Susie can be found in the Pacific Northwest. Currently she continues schooling at the University of Washington but who knows where her spontaneous decisions will lead her in life. Art provides her with endless hours of amusement. Susie enjoys drawing, painting and taking photos. Please allow time for visual creativity to release itself.
Social Behavior:
Those displaying a similar sense of humor occupy her with hours of entertainment. She enjoys the company of interesting individuals that do not have a negative personality and can carry on engaging conversation. If permitted she will talk for long periods of time, ask follow up questions and tell jokes that she realizes aren’t funny halfway through.
WARNING: Lack of control over bursts of laughter, hasn’t quite mastered talking in a low voice, may induce awkward silences (accidentally of course). Be careful with her feelings; she is quite gullible and has been known to take comments literally.
Habitat:
Raised in an environment with few housemates, she sometimes feels claustrophobic and cornered into social situations. Please allow solitary time if needed, or asked for. One of her defining abilities is the use of flexibility to curl up in almost all sitting devices and fall asleep within eight and a half minutes. This trait controls crankiness during traveling. During ‘work mode’ her materials tend to slowly ebb outwards and eventually conquer more area than expected. Please note: lack of sleep may induce unresponsiveness, uncontrolled periods of laughter, and possible moodiness.
Feeding:
Susie is a habitual snacker and has plenty of experience with rummaging in pantries. Nearby food WILL disappear within her jaws never to be seen again. This omnivore is not picky about food. She loves fresh fruit and vegetables. Although she does not obsess about meat, she does savor the occasional steak, chicken breast etc. Her favorite protein provider is seafood. Most types of fish and shellfish indulge her appetite. Her snack of choice is popcorn and she appreciates the occasional handful of trail mix. She enjoys almost all cuisines but her favorite is Chinese food, especially dumplings and noodles.
WARNING: Avoid feeding her blue cheese, Ethiopian bread, and most meats that still look like the animal in question.
Thank you for visiting Susie, we hope you enjoyed the exhibit.
Wednesday, September 12, 2007
Caravaggio Interpretation
Exercise 8
I walk through the halls and gaze at the paintings along the ornate walls in the Palazzo Barberini. A distinct style of bright colors encircled by dramatic dark shadow catches my eye. I spy a Caravaggio. I have never seen this one before. The painting shows a boy wearing a grey tunic, blue pants and a white ruffled undershirt. He perches himself in a crouching position over a dim reflection and shows his profile as he looks down. Most of the painting is in shadow; his shirt has many more highlights than his face. He appears to be waxing the ground and then gazing into the reflection for some answer to solve his problems. He has a soft expression and his left hand melts into the floor. The expression seems mildly amused and genuinely interested. Caravaggio's placement of the body draws the viewer in and leads his/her gaze downwards with the boy’s. The harmonious balance of left and right differ from the upwardly skewed composition. From afar, the figure looks like he’s floating in midair. The effect pulls me closer as I yearn to see what he was seeing because clearly it consumed all of his body and thought. Without knowing what the painting was for, I would base this off a scene from Narcissus, someone who turns their reflection into an obsession with themselves. The boy does not want to leave and does not show any intention to.
After researching online, I concluded that my hypothesis holds true. The painting represents one of the few mythological pieces Caravaggio has ever painted and the title actually reads Narcisco alla Fonte. He painted it sometime between 1597 and 1599. As I flipped through information online, I came across numerous photos of the painting. I could not believe the difference in impression viewing the actual piece gave me. Many of the photos online showed exponentially more exposure and details I could not pick out in real life, were illuminated clearly. For example, I never saw the pond or the ground Narcissus sits on, nor did I see such a clear reflection or such bright colors. I believe the effect of the actual piece was more effective and added a level of mystery and intrigue into the painting. I strongly praise the skill and technique he employs does convey exactly what Prose states. A certain wonder appears in the face of Narcissus. This exact moment shows him discovering his reflection for the first time, not the second, not the third. But, the first, the life changing moment that leads to his demise.
I walk through the halls and gaze at the paintings along the ornate walls in the Palazzo Barberini. A distinct style of bright colors encircled by dramatic dark shadow catches my eye. I spy a Caravaggio. I have never seen this one before. The painting shows a boy wearing a grey tunic, blue pants and a white ruffled undershirt. He perches himself in a crouching position over a dim reflection and shows his profile as he looks down. Most of the painting is in shadow; his shirt has many more highlights than his face. He appears to be waxing the ground and then gazing into the reflection for some answer to solve his problems. He has a soft expression and his left hand melts into the floor. The expression seems mildly amused and genuinely interested. Caravaggio's placement of the body draws the viewer in and leads his/her gaze downwards with the boy’s. The harmonious balance of left and right differ from the upwardly skewed composition. From afar, the figure looks like he’s floating in midair. The effect pulls me closer as I yearn to see what he was seeing because clearly it consumed all of his body and thought. Without knowing what the painting was for, I would base this off a scene from Narcissus, someone who turns their reflection into an obsession with themselves. The boy does not want to leave and does not show any intention to.
After researching online, I concluded that my hypothesis holds true. The painting represents one of the few mythological pieces Caravaggio has ever painted and the title actually reads Narcisco alla Fonte. He painted it sometime between 1597 and 1599. As I flipped through information online, I came across numerous photos of the painting. I could not believe the difference in impression viewing the actual piece gave me. Many of the photos online showed exponentially more exposure and details I could not pick out in real life, were illuminated clearly. For example, I never saw the pond or the ground Narcissus sits on, nor did I see such a clear reflection or such bright colors. I believe the effect of the actual piece was more effective and added a level of mystery and intrigue into the painting. I strongly praise the skill and technique he employs does convey exactly what Prose states. A certain wonder appears in the face of Narcissus. This exact moment shows him discovering his reflection for the first time, not the second, not the third. But, the first, the life changing moment that leads to his demise.
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